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BMW 6-pot (3L or bigger)

01 Sep 2016 in Wanted
so skidding a 325i is cool, but after last weekend in Latvia, I understood that I need more power (the stock M50 isn't up to the task of going 100+km/h sideways). I have many ideas, and haven't made up my mind yet, so I'd be open to offers on M54B30, S50 and other similar engines. haven't found a...
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I'm back, 10 years later

28 Aug 2016 in Newbies
Good morning gentlemen, lady's and absolute cunts. I've not been here for years so figure I should probably post in newbies again 👍🏻 Now I've passed all my qualifications i can afford more than just food and porn again so a drift car is next on the hit list. Now when I was a youth I must admit...
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You cunts still here?

14 Apr 2016 in Newbies
Fucking hell. I had almost forgotten about this place. Do people still use forums? I still remeber being super excited to get 50 users on this board. Haha
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Eyup fuckers!

20 Mar 2016 in Newbies
Jayk, from Devon. Been here before when I had my fucking useless rotbox of an FC for a bit.. But now back with the shittest of shit Volvo 345's that I wanna do some stupid skids in.  Was gunna chop the springs, but the engine disintegrated as soon as I got it, so been fucking about with a do...
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Hi from North Devon

17 Mar 2016 in Newbies
Hi everyone I am Sam 34 from Braunton North Devon, new to drifting but have worked on cars quite a bit. Bought this e46 323ise for £250 170k no mot eml light on limp moded it home and found the throttle body was jammed, cleaned the bugger out with tooth brush and carb spray - problem solved! F...
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TD tyre guide


The TD guide to tyres.



Why for this guide?

If you're going to be drifting, you're going to be caning a LOT of tyres. Probably more than anything else. They are nothing more than a consumable - lasting a lot less time than a tank of fuel. Long gone are the days of going to Kwik-Fit and getting a pair every year, or come MOT time. Think of lifespan in terms of minutes, not thousands of miles - even using new ones. With this in mind, you're going to need a supply, a means of changing them and a means of disposing of them. There will also be a bit about brands - many of us think of skid tyres in terms of size only - but the brand can make a difference. No, really.
Sourcing skid tyres.

So, where are these tyres coming from? There are several ways of sourcing the ridiculous amount of tyres you'll be destroyificating.

You could always go and buy new ones - probably between £40 and £60 a corner for cheapies. New tyres will last MUCH better than part worns or baldies, usually fitted by the tyre supplier you got them from, give predictable grip, be as reliable as a tyre can be given the use it's being subjected to and there's a lot less messing about with getting tyres changed. But until you're competing in the BDC/EDC/Formula D series or become loaded, this is likely to be prohibitively expensive. So you'll probably want to scratch that.

You could slash the cost by buying part worns at a tenner a piece couldn't you? But again - it's gonna get relatively expensive, relatively fast, and not knowing the history of the tyres doesn't give you the reliability of buying new ones. On the plus side, the supplier will often fit them for you and they usually have decent tread remaining on them so they last fairly well.

However, there is a much cheaper (and greener, lol) alternative...

Welcome to the world of 'tyre piling'. Trust me, it's like crack - once you start - it's kinda hard to stop...

Given that the tyres aren't for road use - illegal 'bald' tyres are generally fine. They don't last anything like a new set, but it's what most of the TD lads use - even some who compete. And best of all - they're usually FREE. And we like pricing structures that use that word.

Tyre companies (Kwik-Fit, ATS, blah blah) usually have a huge pile of old tyres hanging around. And they have to pay to have these taken away. You may even luck out and find a pair that have been taken off early and are still WELL road legal - or scrapped due to sidewall damage or perishing - making them MOT fails but ideal for what we want to use them for. Generally you'll find they have between 1-2mm left on them, or have heavy wear to one side (ideal for the back on a slammed E30 if you fit them 'backwards'). So hit up the local tyre places and see if they'll let you pikey off their pile. You could always just roll up on a Saturday afternoon and have a surrepticious dig through and liberate a few at a time - but we couldn't condone that (I think it's technically stealing...).

Sizes may be a bit hit and miss - but when you get to the point where you'll feel the difference between a 195/50r15 and a 195/55r15 you're well beyond the help of this guide.

Now I have a heap of tyres, what the hell am I going to do with them?

The short answer is 'KILL THEM, as quickly as possible'. Buy they're just old tyres, how do I get them on my car? Again... choices...

Stick them in the boot, and take 'em skidding. A lot of drift days (the number is always increasing) have a tyre man on site. This can vary from entirely free to £5-7 per tyre changed + a small cost for disposal (unless you take them away yourself). A lot of people make use of this, especially if they have big, shiny rims they don't want butchering, and no-one will think worse of you if you take advantage.

But we're all about doing things as cheaply as possible - and the cheapest way will always be to change them yourself... here's how:

Get a shitload of rims. Any rims. Steel, alloy, even 3 spokes... eww... That way you can fit the tyres up at your leisure, taking a week to do it if you like. It saves rushing about at skid days when you've caned a pair. Transport them all built up and ready to bolt on - less time spent changing tyres = more time killing them.

Now you want to get them off. There's some underpinning theory for ya in here but bear with me, it's kinda important and not as shit as you think.

What you need to do first is remove the air. Unless of course you're a real man and the tyres are already burst. In that case, move along a bit. The fastest way to get the air out is to remove the 'valve core'. For this you'll need a 'valve key', which is inserted into the valve and unscrews the inside bit, allowing the air to whoosh out. Be careful though - the escaping air can blow the core out some distance. And you'll need it to keep the new pressures in.

Once the air's out, you're still not gonna get the tyre off - you need to 'break the bead'. Breaking the bead is getting the tyre to 'let go' of the rim. The bead is shown here:

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As you can see, the well is 'sided', with the steep drop on the FRONT/OUTSIDE of the rim. This is why it is only possible to remove the tyre from one side. Some weird wheels have it the other way around - but a quick look should let you know if this is the case.

The bead of the tyre is marked. This is a loop of steel wire that holds the tyre together. This is pretty bloody strong and doesn't stretch much, the reason for the well.

This can be a twat of a job, and if you have any sense you'll buy a cheap manual tyre machine that will have a bead breaker on it - but there are cheaper alternatives. Here's some techniques the TD'ers have found to work:

Lowering a car with a rim without a tyre onto the bead:

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Jack and wood and doorframe method.

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Donut the beads off.

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Or make your own bead breaker thusly:

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Once you've broken both the beads (yep, you have to do both sides) you are ready to get that rubber twat off there. Again, choices...

You'll need tools. Sorry, there's no getting away from it, you ain't doing this shit with your bare hands.

If you've got the cash and space, get one of these and read the instructions (not as expensive as you'd think, search up eBay):

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Automatic machines will need a power source (compressed air and electricity). The compressed air is to operate the bead breaker and top arm, the electricity is to turn the table. They are available in 3-phase (generally commercial premises) and single-phase (240v), usually the single phase ones are more expensive because the supply is in everyone's house whereas you'll usually want commercial/agricultural premises to access 3-phase.

A medium sized compressor (not a hobby compressor, a slightly bigger, non-portable one) will be fine to run a tyre machine, as long as it can store somewhere in the region of 200psi for the bead breaker (some beads can be an absolute twat to shift, even with pneumatic power).

If you have less room and less cash, buy one of these (quite a bit cheaper but more work):

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Even this will usually need a compressor to operate the bead breaker although some will come with a manually operated 'lever/pivot-type' bead breaker making the entire machine manual and needing no power source except yourself. Probably worth looking out for if you have no mod-cons in your lock-up.

If wedge or space is in very short supply, buy these and get ready for some manual labour:

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Here's a video of Hawkey showing us what we do with the levers:




Disclaimer - The step by step is slightly different to the video, but both work. You'll find your own rhythm/technique. It's simpler than it looks when you get the hang of it, I promise.

Remember - the tyre usually comes off the FRONT/OUTSIDE of the rim. If it's mentally tight, it could be going the wrong way.

Hit the tyre bead and inside of the rim with tyresoap/fairy liquid. Slippery is good. Some slippery is good, more slippery is better.

Lay the wheel/tyre assembly on the floor in front of you. Stand on the bottom (nearest to you) half of the tyre. This helps the tyre drop in to the well in the rim (if the tyre doesn't fall into the well, you'll struggle like hell until it does).

Insert your shiny new tyre levers between the wheel rim and tyre and lever the tyre bead over the rim. It won't go if the other side of the bead hasn't dropped into the well. Work your way around the rim, peeling the tyre as you go. It will be tight, and you will sweat, swear and probably hurt yourself until you get the hang of it. Eventually it'll pop off and you'll go 'YEAH BOIII!'.

Now flip the tyre over and do the same. Kinda.

What you'll want to do is make sure the tyre is as far into the well as possible before you start, and start levering around the rim. Eventually it'll come off. Probably with lots more swearing. You may need the hammer to coax the last bit off.

If you need the hammer, you'll know you need the hammer. If the tyre is scrap then batter lumps out of it. Be a bit more careful if it's going to be re-fitted.

Well done, you just removed your first tyre. Now to put another one on. It's probably actually easier tbh.

Step one - LUBE UP THE BEADS. There's no use going in dry...you'll just get hurt (hehehe...).

If you are lucky, soap up the beads and it'll just walk on - lay the rim on the floor and jam the tyre onto it - making sure it's going on the FRONT/OUTSIDE first (seriously.You'll want to hang yourself after an hour of struggling the wrong way and then you figure it out. Ask me how I know...) and simply try to push it on. No, I mean PUSH it on, then try to stamp it on, it'll be tight. You may well end up needing the hammer to persuade it on or lever to lever it on, but if it's the right size (ask me how I know...) it'll go on.

Once the first bead drops on, it's time to get the second bead on.

Stand on the bottom (nearest you) sidewall, again to push it into the well. And start levering. it's like a bigger version of a pushbike tyre. It should just lever on - but again, it will be tight. If it's MENTAAAAAL tight then take another look... making sure the bead is IN THE WELL.

Once it's dropped on, you need to pump it up. If you're lucky, it will seal all by itself and just inflate as normal. Other times... it just won't. It'll flop around like a hot dog in a hooker's flange and nothing you do will make it seal with just an airline. Here's where you need to get specialist. I assume since you're using levers, you don't have a Bead Blaster - so we'll pikey our own version.

Remember the hairspray and lighter? Thought so... and you thought I was crazy.

WARNING - THIS IS A HEALTH AND SAFETY MANAGER'S NIGHTMARE. IF YOU DIE, IT'S YOUR FAULT FOR FOLLOWING A GUIDE WRITTEN BY SOMEONE WITH VERY LITTLE SENSE OF SELF PRESERVATION.

Re-fit the valve core.

Get the hairspray tin, and spray it inside the tyre. Loads of it. SHHHHHHHHHHHHHH SHHHHHHHHHHH SHHHHHHHHHH. Loads of hairspray. Like pleeeenty. The cheaper the better. A) because cheap is good and B) it's been said that it's more flammable than expensive stuff. Yeah, I said flammable. Who said learning stuff isn't fun?

When you feel there is ample hairspray in there, hit it a tiny bit more, for luck. Then grab the lighter, and get everyone to stand back. Because you're gonna light it.

Stretch out (keeping your face n' shizzle away from the IED you've just made) and light it. With any luck it'll go FLUMP! and the explosion will seat the tyre against the rim. Now blow it up as usual. After putting the fire out of course. Or if you're an idiot, while the hairspray on the outside is burning off.

It does work... see:




If you bought a manual tyre changer - then read the instructions or click here:

[YOUTUBE VID OF DUKE BUTCHERING A TYRE GOES HERE]

What do I do with old tyres?

Getting rid of old tyres can be a nightmare. DO NOT go and dump them in a ditch. It's very illegal and gives us a bad rep. DO NOT DO IT. Please.

A lot of tyre places will dispose of them for you - but they will charge. Because they have to pay too. It's only usually about a quid a tyre, but worth considering.

Or you can take them to the council tip - but they will only take a certain amount per year, unless you're sneaky. And we can't condone sneakiness.

Farmers may take them off your hands as well - they use them to hold down tarpaulins and suchlike. But they won't be happy if you turn up with shreddies. Ask me how I know...


Tyre information.

This is really basic stuff that 99% of folks already know, but it's nice to add things for completion's sake.

Every tyre also has a bunch of information on the sidewall. We're all familiar with tyre sizes - things like 195/50r15, and here's what it means...

195 = Tyre tread width in mm.

50 = Aspect ratio or 'profile'. This is the height of the sidewall expressed as a percentage of the tyre width. In this case 50% of 195mm. Obviously, the lower this number the lower the 'profile' of the tyre.

r = Indicates the tyre is of radial construction as opposed to a cross-ply. Cross-plys are pretty rare nowadays, and if you find some in skiddy sizes, you've done pretty well.

15 = Diameter of the rim it should be mounted on in inches.

There are also speed, load and treadwear ratings - but we don't care much about them. With the possible exception of treadwear - you can get some idea of how long the tyre is likely to last by looking at this - but to be honest, it makes very little difference when skidding them to death.

There are metric sized tyres and rims doing the rounds as well - avoid these unless you have metric rims, in which case you have my pity. Now get onto Jeek and buy some proper wheels.


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